The Creole Catch & Cook: Lafitte to NOLA
“I had a job in the great north woods working as a cook for a spell, but I never did like it all that much and one day the axe just fell.
So I drifted down to New Orleans where I lucky was to be employed, workin’ for a while on a fishin’ boat right outside of Delacroix.”
- Bob Dylan
I love this verse from ‘Tangled Up in Blue.’ There is something about a traveling vagabond, aimlessly drifting through life that just hits with me. Whenever I hear it I think of all the places I’ve been fishing along the south Louisiana coast in addition to Delacroix like Cocodrie, Port Fourchon, Grand Isle, and Venice. These inshore havens offer arguably some of the best fishing on the planet which is one of the reasons why Louisiana has earned the title, “Sportsman’s Paradise.” I’m always looking for an excuse to go down the bayou. So when my buddy Harris suggested we celebrate the 32nd anniversary of his 21st birthday at Mardi Gras, he didn’t have to try to convince me. As a native New Orleanian, I fully embrace the concept of celebrating the ability to celebrate.
Harris and I get along so well because we both love two things—great fishing and amazing food. And all else being equal, after three straight days of beads, beer, and b**bs from Friday through Sunday, we were ready for a change of scenery. So on Lundi Gras we woke up early, skipped the uptown parades, and headed down to Lafitte.
Inshore Fishing with Last Cast Guide Services in Lafitte (Catch)
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Lafitte is a short drive from downtown New Orleans. It is amazing how quickly after crossing the Mississippi River the city skyline fades into moss covered oak and cypress trees. After a 30-minute ride we pulled into the parking lot at Joe’s Landing, home of the world famous ‘Pop’s Bayou Bloody Mary.’ They make it with pickle vodka, and yes, it is all it’s cracked up to be. That’s where we met up with our local guide Kory Matherne, who has been fishing these waters his entire life. Kory is the real deal, all the way down to his duck boots and Cajun accent. When I asked him just before sunrise how he felt about the 30% chance of rain in the forecast, he didn’t even look up from his coffee while quipping politely, “Boy, dat ain’t sh*t.”
After a pit stop and Bloody Mary #1, we hopped in Kory’s boat and followed the Barataria Waterway over to an area known as the, ‘Texaco Canals’ which is a maze of abandoned channels previously cut and used by oil companies treasure hunting for oil and natural gas. We were targeting Redfish, and Kory absolutely crushed it. The first keepers we landed were a pair of Black Drum, followed by a series of Redfish that were just outside of the slot.
A quick side note on, ‘the slot’ if you are not familiar with this terminology. Fish that are smaller or larger than a certain slot size limit must be released. Trust me, you don’t want to end up on the wrong side of a Louisiana Department of Wildlife & Fisheries (LDWF) game warden, especially in a place where they’ll never find your body. Simply put, respect the slot which varies by state and species. In Louisiana, the slot limits are as follows:
Red Drum (Redfish): 18~27 inches (max four per person per day)
Black Drum: 16~27 inches (max five per person per day)
Few things are more heartbreaking than throwing back a 17-inch or 28-inch Redfish. First world problems I suppose. But after what felt like a never-ending series of releases, the slot gods finally smiled upon us. We filled the box over the course of the morning working multiple spots and headed back to the dock where Kory cleaned our haul while we enjoyed a well-earned Bloody Mary #2.
Dining at GW Fins: Louisiana’s Catch and Cook Program in the French Quarter (Cook)
GW Fins is part of the Louisiana Catch and Cook Program supported by the LDWF. This highly-rated upscale venue has been owned & operated by Gary Wollerman and his family since opening its doors in 2001. We barely beat the tag sliding into home plate, handing our fish off to the hostess minutes before the 3pm deadline. After a short nap, quick shower, and change of clothes at the hotel (respect the dress code), we promptly returned for our 5:30pm reservation.
The cost to prepare your fish in three styles is $30 per person. Additional menu items, wine, and cocktails are priced a la carte.
We led off with the Tempura Fin Wings prepared in a Korean glaze and served with a chilled crispy noodle salad. We followed that with the Triple Iceberg Wedge which features blue cheese & bacon, Thousand Island & tomato, and creamy basil & shrimp. The kitchen prepared our Redfish three ways—Blackened, Parmesan Crusted, and Tempura Korean Glazed which we paired with a glass of the Famille Savary Bourgogne Epineuil (I couldn’t pronounce it either). For side dishes we selected the Dirty Rice & Collard Greens with chicken liver debris and the Louisiana Crawfish Fritters with pepper jelly and chow chow.
While dessert certainly was not necessary, our logic was if we are already this many calories in, what’s a few more? So despite our better judgment we capped our meal with a slice of the pretzel crusted Salty Malty Ice Cream Pie served with caramel whipped cream.
Check, please.
Kneaux Before You Geaux
While I acknowledge that pre-planning absolutely flies in the face of Bob Dylan’s implied spontaneity and free spirit, it’s a necessary evil if you want to replicate this experience. Understanding that you can’t control the weather or the bite, here are a few must-do’s to hedge your odds of success.
Make your fishing and dinner reservations well in advance. Let GW Fins know when making the reservation that you intend to have a catch-and-cook meal.
Bring sunscreen, water, and your fishing license. You can purchase a three-day saltwater non-resident charter passenger license online through the LDWF.
Bring your cleaned catch to GW Fins no later than 3pm on the day of your reservation.
Additional participants in the Catch and Cook Program include: Bourbon House, Palace Cafe, Tableau, and Ye Olde College Inn. And just remember that if either the weather or the fish decide not to cooperate, you will find several offerings on any of these menus to enjoy. Trust me.
Even though Harris’ entire ‘Birthday-Gras’ celebration was one for the record books, we both agreed that the catch-and-cook was by far our best day, hands-down. It’s tough to find a more authentic experience.
Ready to reel in your own Louisiana adventure? Book your inshore charter with Last Cast Guide Service, make a reservation with a Catch and Cook restaurant like GW Fins, and experience the flavor of the bayou for yourself. We highly recommend giving it a geaux.
Fish On!