“Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans, and miss it each night and day?

I know I’m not wrong, the feeling’s getting stronger the longer I stay away.” (Louis Armstrong)

This gritty 1947 classic gets me right in the ‘feels’ every time I hear it.

I love being a tour guide in my hometown. New Orleans is where I spent the first 25 years of my life. And since moving to Georgia after college, I have discovered one simple truth: you can take the boy out of NOLA, but you can’t take NOLA out of the boy. I return to my stomping grounds a few times a year for an injection of the soul I haven’t found anywhere else. I also frequently receive phone calls and texts from friends asking my advice for their upcoming visit. So, I decided to map out a collection of my favorite places to maximize your “Big Easy” experience if you are considering a weekend excursion (48 hours from Friday to Sunday).

Where to Stay

If you are a newbie, you will likely spend most of your time in the French Quarter (Downtown) and Garden District (Uptown). There are no shortages of Vrbo and Airbnb options but choosing a place in a foreign land can be overwhelming for first timers. If you want to eliminate the guesswork, my recommendation is The Windsor Court hotel located in the heart of the city. It has a simple elegance and offers all the five-star amenities you need including a rooftop pool, a full-service spa and dining (morning, noon, and night). The Polo Club (open weekly at 11:30am) features classic cocktails, elevated pub fare as well as live piano performances nightly (5:30pm to 8:30pm) and jazz trios on Saturdays and Sundays (9:00 pm to Midnight). This is a great spot to either “pre-game” before you head out or end your evening with a nightcap.

Where to Eat

You really can’t go wrong here. I don’t know if I’ve ever had a ‘bad meal’ in this city. This list reflects my highlight reel. Meaning when I come home, this is my dance card broken down by meal (and dress code) in reverse order: Dinner, Lunch, and Brunch / Breakfast.

Dinner Only (Formal)

In the French Quarter, I’m making reservations at either Arnaud’s or Galatoire’s. Both have been in operation for over 100 years and will exceed your expectations. My favorite bites on Arnaud’s menu are the Shrimp Arnaud, Oysters Arnaud, Trout Amandine, and Souffle Potatoes. At Galatoire’s I’m going with Oysters en Brochette, Duck and Andouille Gumbo, Godchaux Salad, and Lamb Chops with a side of Brabant Potatoes. Can I eat either of these meals in one sitting? Of course not. That’s why you bring friends. FYI, gentlemen are required to wear jackets after 5pm and all day on Sunday (respect the dress code). If you find yourself Uptown, I recommend La Petite Grocery or Brigsten’s. Definitely try the Blue Crab Beignets at La Petite, and do not leave Brigsten’s without having the pecan pie. It will change your life. It is ok if you don’t wear a jacket at these two venues, but I would err on the side of business casual.

Dinner & Lunch (Casual)

Ready to ditch the jacket? Look no further than Frankie & Johnny’s on the corner of Tchoupitoulas and Arabella (Uptown). I usually plan my flight to arrive at MSY around 12pm so I can take an Uber straight there. The order at F&J’s is the Combo Fried Pepper and Onion Rings, Boiled Crawfish (seasonal), a dozen raw and a dozen chargrilled oysters. But they have all the NOLA favorites: po-boys, seafood platters, red beans and rice, fried chicken (made to order) from 11am to 9pm (8pm on Sunday). My other direct-from-baggage-claim to lunch suggestion is Parkway Bakery & Tavern in Mid-City (closed Monday & Tuesday). Parkway has less indoor seating but offers covered patio seating (wear shorts and t-shirt). Their specialty is the House-Made Roast Beef Poor Boy with Gravy. Do not get it to go. The French Bread will turn into a meat sponge, so dine in. Throw in a side of the Gravy Cheese Fries as well. You might hate yourself later, but you won’t in the moment. Two final French Quarter stops on the causal train (toot-toot)! Port of Call for the best burger in New Orleans served with a loaded baked potato and washed down with a Neptune’s Monsoon (“an old recipe used frequently as a last request by pirates condemned to walk the plank”). Or if you are looking for the world’s best grab-n-go sandwich, I present to you the Central Grocery & Deli. A Muffuletta, a bag of Zapp’s (Crawtators or Jalapeno) and an ice cold Barq’s to go (there is no place to sit). But a park bench in Jackson Square or along the Mississippi River Moon Walk can provide a perfect impromptu picnic spot.

Café Du Monde famous coffee and hot beignets | Image by James Lewis

Brunch (Formal) & Breakfast (Casual)

I’ll lead off with formal brunch and bat clean up with casual breakfast. Commander’s Palace (Uptown) is at the top of my lineup with Brennan’s (French Quarter) batting second. If my stay only permits one boozy brunch, I choose Commander’s with a table in The Garden Room (business attire required). The one drawback is that brunch is only served on Saturday (11am to 2:30pm) and Sunday (10am to 2:30pm). Brennan’s, however, is open for breakfast every day starting at 9am (Monday to Friday) and 8am (Saturday & Sunday). The dress code is also more lax (“Please no tank tops, cut-offs or athletic shorts”). And if you just want some breakfast sans the pomp and circumstance, I suggest The Camellia Grill (Uptown) or Mother’s Restaurant (French Quarter). Both serve breakfast all day. Finally, there is Café Du Monde serving fresh chicory coffee and hot beignets all week long starting at 7:15am.

Frankie & Johnny’s | Image by James Lewis

Where to Drink

The Crescent City Classic (CCC) has been held every year in New Orleans since 1979. It is a 10K race that takes participants from the French Quarter, all the way up Esplanade Avenue to City Park. In that vein, I put together a 6.5-mile pub crawl version of the CCC. You can certainly start out walking but at some point, you may wish to delegate transportation responsibilities to a pedicab or streetcar (there’s no shame in that game).

Starting Line

Port of Call | Signature drink, Neptune’s Monsoon.
Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop | Signature drink, the Voodoo Daiquiri aka “Purple Drank.” Circa 1722 this location is rumored to be the smuggling headquarters of legendary privateer, Jean Lafitte.
Pat O’Brien’s | Signature drink, The Hurricane. Be sure to catch the original dueling piano show.
Napoleon House | Signature drink, The Pimm’s Cup. Built in 1797, the building originally served as the mayor’s residence (Nicholas Girod). The property earned its name from the mayor's proposition, in 1821, to provide refuge to Napoleon Bonaparte during his exile.
The Carousel Bar | Signature drink, The Vieux Carre. Boasts the only rotating bar in the city.
The Sazerac Bar | Signature drink, The Sazerac. The official cocktail of New Orleans.
Hot Tin | Presents the best rooftop views.
Columns | Provides alfresco seating for enjoying a beverage while overlooking “The Avenue.”
Finish Line: Cooter Brown’s | 84 beers on tap plus a raw bar.
Post Race Party: The Tchoup Yard | Outdoor patio, firepits, string lights and cornhole.

Historic Preservation Hall | Image by James Lewis

Beyond Food & Beverage

Eating and drinking is a tough act to follow, but not in this town. Preservation Hall on St. Peter Street offers acoustic Jazz in an authentic and intimate setting over 360 days a year (tickets are required). A few other notable music venues are Tipitina’s, the Maple Leaf and Rock ‘n’ Bowl which offer a wider array of musical acts including blues, funk, rock, and zydeco. The New Orleans Museum of Art (“NOMA”) is the city’s oldest fine arts institution and features French and American art. Perhaps the most impressive museum is The National WWII Museum, which proudly displays a reproduction of the Higgins Boat in its Louisiana Memorial Pavilion. New Orleans was home to Higgins Industries which manufactured the landing craft that “won the war for us” according to President Eisenhower. There are also several operators offering inshore charter fishing less than an hour from downtown in areas like Lafitte and Delacroix if you want to get out on the water.

This may seem like a lot to tackle in a weekend, but every journey begins with the first step. Here is a sample itinerary I have used on a few group trips. Keep in mind, this is completely customizable, and you have complete autonomy to tailor your own experience.

Friday arrival (noon)

Lunch at Parkway Tavern. Check into the hotel. National WWII Museum. Back to hotel. Shower / change for dinner. Gather at the Polo Lounge for cocktails. Dinner at Arnaud’s or Galatoire’s. After dinner revelry at Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop and/or Pat O’Brien’s (early night).

Saturday

Wake up (5am). Fishing in Lafitte or Delacroix for specs and reds. Back by noon. Lunch at Frankie & Johnny’s*. Pit stops at the Tchoup Yard followed by Hot Tin. Back to the Quarter for a show at Preservation Hall. Work your way back toward your hotel via Napoleon House and The Carousel Bar. Power nap or swim at the rooftop pool. Shower and change for dinner at La Petite Grocery or Brigsten’s. After dinner show at the Maple Leaf, Rock ‘n’ Bowl or Tipitina’s. Late night burger at Port of Call if you get hungry. Bedtime.

*Note: Jazz Brunch at Commander’s or Breakfast at Brennan’s can be substituted for fishing & lunch.

Sunday

Wake up. Coffee (first cup) from hotel room coffee maker. Walk along the river to Café Du Monde for coffee (second cup) and beignets. Walk to Central Grocery to grab a carryout muffuletta for your flight. Check out of the hotel and uber to the airport. Noon departure.

This agenda is not for the faint of heart and recalls one of my favorite quotes from the movie, “Lone Survivor.”

“Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards.” (Shane Patton)

But keep in mind, it can be dialed up or down based on your preferences and the length of stay. Take on as little or as much as you wish. Just find your balance and laissez les bons temps rouler.

48 Hours in NOLA: A Tour de Force

Where to Stay