Florida’s Forgotten Coast Stories: St. George Island
St. George Island Lighthouse
Most of my travels in and around Florida have primarily concentrated on the sugar sand beaches along Highways 98 and 30A between Pensacola to Panama City. And based on that experience, I reluctantly tend to associate this 100-mile stretch of the Gulf Coast with high-rise condos, go-kart tracks, water parks, chain restaurants, and large crowds of beachgoers.
That impression took a welcomed 180-degree turn once I was introduced to St. George Island in November of 2022.
The Uncommon Florida
My in-laws had rented a beach house on St. George for their 50th wedding anniversary over Thanksgiving week and invited everyone in the immediate family to celebrate. I should mention that this was by no means a small gathering. Rather it included eight adults, 10 children (ages 5 to 13) and an untrained boxer puppy all under one roof. The more the merrier. Prior to their invitation, I had neither considered St. George, nor could I recall anyone ever recommending it to me. But we were so delighted with our inaugural visit that we have returned three times since.
Why? Because it checks all of our boxes for quiet, coastal, pet friendly, and family fun.
St. George is centrally located in Florida’s panhandle in an area referred to by locals as “The Forgotten Coast.” Heading east from Panama City, you drive 70 miles down HWY 98 through Apalachicola and cross over the Bryant Patton Memorial Bridge. And upon arrival you discover a significantly less developed low-key barrier island with unspoiled beaches and natural marshes where time just seems to slow down.
It is a place to unplug and be present with the people you care most about. And as one might expect, in exchange for this welcome seclusion you do give up a few creature comforts. So, my wife and I put together this ‘know before you go’ guide to take out some of the guesswork for first-time visitors.
St. George Island Beach | Image by James Lewis
Where to Stay
First, there are no high-rise condos on the island. There are a few small two-story inns offering affordable nightly rates, but St. George is largely populated by its residents and rental homes which generally require a one-week minimum stay. Accordingly, there are several rental property operators on the island such as Vacasa, Fickling & Company, Suncoast Vacation Rentals, and Collins Vacation Rentals, to name a few. Normally we book our rentals through Vrbo. That changed once my in-laws introduced us to Cape & Coast. Our experience with Cape & Coast has been superior to any rental company we have used in the past when it comes to quality and cleanliness. In fact, we have booked through them for every single visit, and we have never rented the same house twice. In terms of variety, they manage over 70 homes on the island, most of which are pet friendly. We have never had an issue they couldn’t resolve within 24 hours. In addition to providing excellent service, Cape & Coast is partnered with VayK Gear and includes a $250 credit towards renting chairs, bikes, helmets, paddle boards, life jackets, skimboards, boogie boards, cornhole, wagons, ice chests, umbrellas… you get the idea. VayK also offers delivery and pickup coordinated with your arrival and departure dates. The key benefit here is that if you don’t have to hassle with hauling your own bikes and beach gear, you have more room to pack.
What to Bring
Speaking of packing, since you don’t have to take up cargo space with chairs and umbrellas you have more room to bring groceries. I can’t stress this enough as there is no full-service grocery store on the island. Yes, there are several mini-marts including the Piggly Wiggly Xpress which is on your right as you come onto the island. But the nearest full-service grocery store (and pharmacy) is in Apalachicola which is about a 20-minute drive from the island (or 40-minute round trip). Said another way, if you think you are going to arrive, unpack, and then go quickly hit the local Publix, Kroger, Albertsons, Winn-Dixie, Harris Teeter (etc.) or throw in an Instacart order, think again. We have six children, so we are very strategic about meal planning. We load up at Costco before we leave town and pack coolers of groceries to cover the bulk of our meals. We mainly use the Piggly Wiggly Xpress for one off purchases or refills. Also, I recommend you bring bottled water. You can certainly make coffee and cook with tap water, but as a standalone refreshment it has its own undeniable personality (taste). If either you or your guests do not appreciate a splash of sulfur, bring a case (or two) of bottled water.
Renny the Boxer | Image by Amanda Lewis
Pet Friendly
Our boxer (Renny) is very much a part of our family. We prefer bringing her with us when we travel as opposed to boarding her. Fortunately, St. George Island is in Franklin County which welcomes both leashed and well behaved pets of all sizes. Renny loves the beach and is right alongside us throughout the day splashing in the surf, hunting for oversized shells, making new friends with other families’ fur babies, or snoozing in a beach chair. We bring her long-lead as well as an E-Collar and have never had a mishap.
Pompano and Blue Fish | Image by James Lewis
Fishing
Our crew loves to fish. And as soon as the cars are unpacked, we are rigging the surf poles and wetting our lines at the beach regardless of the tide. If you do not have your own fishing tackle, no problem. Head over to Survivors Bait and Tackle around the corner from the Piggly Wiggly Xpress. It is open from 7:00AM to 5:00PM daily. The staff is extremely friendly, and they will set you up for success. All you need to do is ask. We routinely either surf fish for Pompano or head over to The Pier which runs 600-feet out into Apalachicola Bay parallel to the Bryant Patton Memorial Bridge where you can catch Whiting, Sheepshead, Black Drum, Spanish Mackerel and more. You can purchase a saltwater fishing license online through the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission. There are multiple options for non-resident licenses including an Annual, 3-day or 7-day license. Simply follow the prompts and download the license to your phone.
Dining
Although we put a great deal of thought into meal planning, we also enjoy a break from the kitchen. It is supposed to be a vacation after all. If you need to press the ‘easy button’ for a meal or just want a night out, St. George offers a variety of local restaurants which are mostly located near the iconic lighthouse. Here is a rundown on a few of the places we enjoy:
Weber’s Little Donut Shop | Image by James Lewis
Weber’s Little Donut Shop serves fresh donuts from Tuesday through Saturday. They are open from 7:30AM until supplies run out (and they do sell out). A few items of note, it is cash only and the wait is about an hour. So, you might want to bring a camping chair and a coffee, but I promise you it is worth it. Weber’s regularly posts their specialty ‘Donuts of the Day’ on Facebook so you can check the menu before you commit.
BJ’s Pizza & Subs is open daily from 11:00AM to 10:00PM. In addition to pizza and subs (as their name suggests) they also have appetizers and cold beer. It is a very popular place, and they typically disconnect their phone around 7:00PM. Keep that in mind if you prefer calling in a takeout order. Otherwise, you can dine in or simply show up, place a to-go order and enjoy a beer or three. Fair warning, the wait time can be 45 minutes to an hour, especially on Saturday and Sunday evenings which are the two days that most weekly rental periods begin and end.
Blue Parrot Oceanfront Cafe is on the beach directly across the street from Weber’s Little Donut Shop. This place has great seafood and cocktails. I’m partial to their conch fritters and raw oysters. They are open daily from 11:00AM to 9:00PM and have a great Tiki Bar. One side note, food service is not offered at the Tiki Bar, at least not when I was there. But let’s be real, you don’t go to a Tiki Bar to eat, amirite?
The Beach Pit is open daily from 8:00AM to 9:00PM. Yes, those hours are correct. They are open for breakfast. But what this place is really known for in addition to their seafood and po-boy’s is their Texas-style barbecue. I know what you might be thinking but trust me, their barbecue is legit (especially if you need a seafood break).
Mango Mike’s Sports Bar & Grill is open daily from 11:30AM to 8:30PM. I have wandered over here while waiting on a BJ’s pizza. The open-air venue has multiple televisions for game day along with solid gator balls and wings. As you might suspect, any place that serves gator balls may lean slightly towards Florida State fans and Mango Mike’s is no exception. Just prepare yourself accordingly if the Seminoles are playing. They offer happy hour specials as well as family friendly lawn games like cornhole and Connect Four which can be a nice diversion for the kiddos.
Aunt Ebby’s Ice Cream serves hand dipped ice cream, sundaes, milkshakes, and cones with all your favorite toppings from 12:00PM to 9:00PM daily. A word of caution, they serve monster scoops as advertised. So come hungry. We like to hit Aunt Ebby’s after a morning of fishing at The Pier and cool off in the shade.
Biking
If you find yourself wanting to work off a few calories after donuts and ice cream, you are in luck. There is a six-mile paved bike path that runs parallel to Gulf Beach Drive from the east end to the west end of the island. In fact, you can bike from your rental house to any of the places mentioned above. And if you are looking to put in some extra miles, the St. George Island State Park located at the east end offers additional roads and trails to explore. Also, if you are staying in St. George Plantation on the west end, there are over 12 miles of natural walking and paved bike paths in this gated community.