Like Mardi Gras, Love Jazz Fest: A Local’s Perspective
If you are looking to retox after Dry January there is no shortage of celebratory options down in the Big Easy. The festivities leadoff with Super Bowl LIX on February 9th, followed by Mardi Gras on March 4th, and Jazz Fest batting third from April 24th through May 4th. If you plan to attempt the trifecta, may God have mercy on your GI system. I would say that’s aggressive, but no judgment over here. You do you.
Being from New Orleans people ask me if I have a preference between Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest. The truth is I enjoy both, but find the experiences very different. If I had to name favorites I would say that I like Mardi Gras, but I love Jazz Fest. Here’s how I break them down.
Like Mardi Gras
Sidenote, if you are planning to go to the Super Bowl this year, you will catch the front end of Mardi Gras (Mardi Gras light) by default. Why? Because Carnival season officially starts on Twelfth Night, 12 days after Christmas. It truly is a marathon of floats, flambeaux, marching bands, king cakes, masquerade balls, hangovers, and revelry. But things don’t really heat up until the week before Mardi Gras Day. Some of the more popular parades during this week include the Krewe of Muses on Thursday, Endymion on Saturday, Bacchus on Sunday, Proteus on Monday aka “Lundi Gras,” and Rex + Zulu on “Fat Tuesday.” You might find yourself asking, “What’s not to love?”
I can name that tune for you in two notes: Crowds & Logistics.
Crowds. If you suffer from enochlophobia or just flat out don’t like hordes of partygoers, you may wish to seek your entertainment elsewhere. An estimated 1 million people come to Mardi Gras each year, which is almost three times the population of the city itself. Suffice to say that hotels, rentals, flights, car services, and restaurants tend to fill up quickly. I don’t care for large crowds, which is one of the reasons why I prefer to Mardi Gras uptown versus downtown. Uptown, especially the Garden District, is considerably less crowded and certainly much more PG rated than the French Quarter (downtown). Yes of course there are still crowds, but there is more space to distance yourself from the masses of inebriated humanity if you need a timeout.
Logistics. When it comes to navigating New Orleans during Mardi Gras, you practically have to be a wayfinder like Moana. This of course is primarily due to the seemingly never-ending series of rolling street closures which change as much for each parade route as the Moving Staircase at Hogwarts. Thankfully the parade routes are published daily. Also for most of the local Uber/Lyft/Taxi drivers, this isn’t their first rodeo. If you do find yourself behind the wheel, just remember that Tchoupatoulis Street along the river is probably your best passageway between uptown and downtown.
Three Tips for Mardi Gras
Refrain from Public Urination. You would think this is a no-brainer in any town. But people who think that have probably never been to Mardi Gras. It can get a little weird. So much in fact, that sometimes people forget that relieving yourself in public is considered lewd conduct which carries a misdemeanor charge that can result in jail time, fines, community service, or all of the above. By no means do I condone this behavior, I’m merely trying to create awareness and help people avoid an unpleasant situation. If you find yourself hopping on one foot, find the nearest Porta Potty or restroom. Pro Tip: Open houses in primarily residential areas can be a real godsend in these situations.
Pace Yourself. Yes, I have heard the saying, “You can’t drink all day if you don’t start in the morning.” Truth be told, I’ve said it…most likely during Mardi Gras. But you don’t want to punch the afterburners right out of the gate Maverick, especially on days like Saturday, Sunday and Tuesday with parades starting before noon. Pump the brakes and go slow. Work in a few waters every hour. And for God’s sake, take a Liquid I.V. before you go to bed each night. Successful implementation of Tip #2 should help with Tip #1. But no promises.
Leave Early. However long you think it will take you to get there, double it. Whether you are using a car service like Uber or Lyft or you are driving yourself, anticipate extended wait times and traffic delays. Before you head out each day, take a few minutes to review the street closures and have an idea of where you are going and how you are getting back. Pro Tip: Establish a few sanctuaries around the city outside of your pied-a-terre so you have an alternate comfortable place to post up if necessary. My recommendations are: Hot Tin atop the Ponchartrain Hotel, Frankie & Johnny’s (crawfish season), and the Tchoup Yard. All three feature food, drink, and indoor plumbing.
Love Jazz Fest
I say this every year, but this year the lineup is insane. Let me take one quick step back and provide some context around the greatest show on turf. The very first New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival was held 55 years ago in 1970. What was originally envisioned as a weekend event worthy of the city’s legacy as the birthplace of jazz has grown into a two-week celebration of music, food, and culture. It is held the last weekend of April through the first weekend of May. Most people plan their visit around Weekend 1 or Weekend 2 based on the headline acts. Here is an overview of the performers at the top of the marquee:
Weekend 1 (April 24~27): Dave Matthews Band, Lil Wayne & the Roots, Kacey Musgraves, Harry Connick, Jr., and Gladys Knight.
Weekend 2 (May 1~4): Pearl Jam, Luke Combs, Lenny Kravitz, Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue, and Patti LaBelle. Pro Tip: Be sure to check out Cowboy Mouth on May 3rd. Frontman Fred LeBlanc puts on quite a show, especially at Jazz Fest.
With regard to crowds, Jazz Fest is far less intimidating in my opinion, attracting an estimated 400,000~500,000 people each year. Sure, that’s a lot of folks, but it’s like half a Mardi Gras. The other thing Jazz Fest has going for it in terms of logistics is concentration. Mardi Gras is spread across the entire city (Uptown, French Quarter, Mid-City, Metairie, Kenner-bruh, the Westbank), whereas the entirety of Jazz Fast is contained to the infield of the Fair Grounds, the nation's third oldest racetrack. So you don’t have to worry about traversing a myriad of street closures when you venture out. Big Easy peasy.
Tickets are available in several formats all of course at varying price points including single-day tickets, weekend 4-Day passes, and VIP packages. Generally speaking, if you are planning to go two days or less, it’s more cost effective to buy single-day tickets. If you are planning to go four days (Thursday to Sunday) a weekend pass is typically less expensive.
Three Tips for Jazz Fest
Dress to Unimpress. Jazz Fest happens rain or shine. Which means you could be hot and wet at the same time. Point being you will either get sweaty or muddy, maybe both. Think function over fashion. Light breathable attire and comfortable shoes that you are willing to sacrifice in the name of mission are a must. If you are attending a formal event or dinner later that day, build in some transition time for a shower and change of clothes. Pro Tip: Avoid planning meals immediately before or after Jazz Fest (see Tip #2).
Do Not Eat Before Festing. You will want to go hungry. Why? Because the food lineup is arguably as equally impressive as the musicians featuring traditional Louisiana classics from Crawfish Monica to Plum Street Snowballs and everything in between. All of the food, beverage, craft, and merch booths accept credit cards, debit cards, prepaid cards, Apple Pay, basically anything but cash. That’s right, Jazz Fest is a cashless event. There are Cash Exchange locations inside the festival which will provide prepaid cards in exchange for cash.
Finding Shade. There are three primary performance stages at Jazz Fest: the Festival Stage, the Congo Square Stage, and the Gentilly Stage. There are also multiple tents featuring Jazz, Blues, and Gospel. It isn’t necessary to create a detailed itinerary, but it doesn’t hurt to review the lineup, look at the map, and plan your day. If you need a break from the sun, pop into the Gospel Tent for some solar and spiritual relief.
What is my plan this year?
I’m booked for both and my countdown has begun. If you are considering a first pass at either one, I recommend starting off with Jazz Fest. Once you get that under your belt you are ready to take off the training wheels and make a run at Mardi Gras. The real key to enjoying either is having the right mindset. My best advice: expect the unexpected, especially if you venture into the Quarter. Fair warning, you will see things there that you cannot unsee. That’s not a challenge, it’s a promise.
Enjoy!